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Non-Withdrawable Bonuses
 

Glued-down bonuses pay the usual 10 to 20 percent and require the standard qualifying play, but they cannot be withdrawn. However, any money won over and above the bonus can be withdrawn. This is not nearly as bad as it sounds; in fact, it makes almost no mathematical difference. Really. It is counter-intuitive, but here's the logic. Say 100 people earn $100 glued-down bonuses for a $10,000 aggregate. They've withdrawn everything else, just the glue is left, and they all bet $100.

Expectation is for about 50 to win and 50 to lose (that's rounded but close enough), so now there are 50 players out of the picture and 50 holding $200. They re-bet the $200, leaving 25 players with $400 each, then do it again, and twelve-and-a-half people pocket $800. Notice how the total sticks right at $10,000, the original face value of the bonuses. The exercise can go on and on, but the point is that as soon as someone wins a bet they have something to withdraw. The only expected loss we did not figure in was the 0.5 percent house edge. For our purposes, non-withdrawable bonuses are worth just under the full amount. In practical terms, the premium poacher buys in and gives the usual, prudent amount of action. If a $1,000 deposit plus $200 bonus has a net loss of say $300, the player then quits and gets back $900 of his money. If a player is ahead, he withdraws everything except the glue, and then he returns and plays either until it is gone, or until he has achieved a balance worth withdrawing. Repeat until gone.

Non-liquid bonuses may well become more common if e-casinos start tightening up. The purpose of glue, like every other house strategy, is to keep the player at the table, repeating bets over and over until the drop is gone. For disciplined people it has a small effect, because only the bonus has to be bet over and over. We've already cut out with the deposit and any winnings.

 
Your Table Image, and How to Use It
 
The collection of perceptions that -,,our opponents have of your play is called your table image. Beyond simply describing your play as good or bad, most poker players identify a player's disposition along two axes: loose/tight and passive/aggressive.
* Loose/tight describes the willingness of a player to gamble. The term usually applies to what starting hands a player calls with. Loose players don't like to fold when they have a chance-any chance-of winning. They tend to play more starting hands than they should and are willing to play draws against longer odds than they should. Tight players are more selective about the hands they start with and are more willing to fold when they believe they are at a mathematical disadvantage.
* Passive/aggressive describes the willingness of a player to risk chips to drive the game to their advantage. Passive players tend to call most of the time, even with very strong hands, because they are satisfied to win any pot and don't feel a need to try to put additional money at risk to build a larger one. Aggressive players tend to bet or raise whenever they sense that doing so will shape the hand to their advantage. They liberally use their chips as weapons to force out opponents and build pots.
 
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