of other considerations, with less than thirteen cards,
a player should avoid the tie, if three or more single
cards of a positive value (other than a 10 or a face-card)
are present. So, for example, eight lOs, one Ace,
one 2, one 7, or one 9 is an unfavorable tie wager.
Single cards are helpful to the tie bet only when
there are two whose combined value is 10, e.g., one
6 remains and one 4 remains, and there are a disproportionate
number of l0s remaining.
I have found Caro's suggestions a useful guideline.
In addition, a player should always assume a tie advantage
1. All the cards in the deck are even.
2. There are no more than three cards of a particular
value remaining in the deck, e.g., only 3s, 5s, and
lOs remain to be dealt.
3. There are two 7s remaining with less than ten cards
4. There are two 7s and two 6s with less than twelve
There are other peculiar deck subsets which exhibit
a positive expectation for the t:e for no apparent
reason. For example, when every card value has precisely
two cards remaining (i.e., two 10s, two 9s, two 8s,
etc.), the tie has a slight edge. To track all the
myriad situations is clearly not possible, but by
following these recommendations you may be able to
capture the lion's share of expected value.
The full strategy for determining favorable tie situations
is beyond the scope of this site. Nevertheless, you
have the most vital elements of the strategy already.
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|A Parting Shot
hand criteria in O,naha-8 are based less cm absolute
hand strength than on avoiding traps into losing draws.
It is chasing these losing draws, not calling with
bad starters, that costs Omaha-8 players the most
money. If you have a (rood understanding of the strengths
and vulnerabilities of hands after the flop and you
have the discipline to drop draws that you know are
unwise, seeing the flop for one low bet can be a great
value with a lot more hands than standard guidance
allows you to call with.
Under these circumstances, I stick pretty close to
the low hand criteria, but I will loosen up a good
bit by play4ng any hand containing a single t«70-card
combination that could plausibly make a nut high.
A suited ace, two cards above ten, AA, or KK are good
enough. With fewer options than the better starting
hands provide, I might not have good chances of flopping
a nut draw-the pocket pairs in particular are long
shots, because they must hit a set-and I flop multiple
draws less often. I go a long time between pots. But
when the flop hits me, I tend to get a lot of action
from opponents drawing to the second- or third-nut
who will pay me off with lower flushes, straights,
sets, or, best of all, full houses.