The "Perfect" Bet
 

Regardless of other considerations, with less than thirteen cards, a player should avoid the tie, if three or more single cards of a positive value (other than a 10 or a face-card) are present. So, for example, eight lOs, one Ace, one 2, one 7, or one 9 is an unfavorable tie wager. Single cards are helpful to the tie bet only when there are two whose combined value is 10, e.g., one 6 remains and one 4 remains, and there are a disproportionate number of l0s remaining.

I have found Caro's suggestions a useful guideline. In addition, a player should always assume a tie advantage if.

1. All the cards in the deck are even.
2. There are no more than three cards of a particular value remaining in the deck, e.g., only 3s, 5s, and lOs remain to be dealt.
3. There are two 7s remaining with less than ten cards left.
4. There are two 7s and two 6s with less than twelve cards left.

There are other peculiar deck subsets which exhibit a positive expectation for the t:e for no apparent reason. For example, when every card value has precisely two cards remaining (i.e., two 10s, two 9s, two 8s, etc.), the tie has a slight edge. To track all the myriad situations is clearly not possible, but by following these recommendations you may be able to capture the lion's share of expected value.

The full strategy for determining favorable tie situations is beyond the scope of this site. Nevertheless, you have the most vital elements of the strategy already.

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A Parting Shot on Omaha-8
 
Starting hand criteria in O,naha-8 are based less cm absolute hand strength than on avoiding traps into losing draws. It is chasing these losing draws, not calling with bad starters, that costs Omaha-8 players the most money. If you have a (rood understanding of the strengths and vulnerabilities of hands after the flop and you have the discipline to drop draws that you know are unwise, seeing the flop for one low bet can be a great value with a lot more hands than standard guidance allows you to call with.

Under these circumstances, I stick pretty close to the low hand criteria, but I will loosen up a good bit by play4ng any hand containing a single t«70-card combination that could plausibly make a nut high. A suited ace, two cards above ten, AA, or KK are good enough. With fewer options than the better starting hands provide, I might not have good chances of flopping a nut draw-the pocket pairs in particular are long shots, because they must hit a set-and I flop multiple draws less often. I go a long time between pots. But when the flop hits me, I tend to get a lot of action from opponents drawing to the second- or third-nut who will pay me off with lower flushes, straights, sets, or, best of all, full houses.
 
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